How to Read a Seed Packet

Seed starting time is in full swing now. If you’ve never started seeds before or if you aren’t sure what everything you read on a seed packet means, this post will help. Just click on the photos of the poppy seed packet for a larger view if you need it and follow along.

A. This tells you if the plant is an annual or perennial. An annual will normally live one growing season (although here on the coast some go a bit longer). Some reseed easily, while others don’t. A perennial will last more than one season.

B. Light requirements. In this case, the poppy should be planted in a full sun location. This means direct sunlight needs to reach the plant for 6 or more hours per day. Part sun would be 4-6 hours or in the dappled light under a fairly open patio or tree. Shade would mean a bit of morning sun only or all day bright, but not direct, light.

C. Bloom time. This tells you when the plant will most likely bloom. Planting seeds that will bloom at varying times will keep your flower beds going all season long.

D. Height. This tells you how tall the plant will be when it blooms. Varying heights in your border with shorter plants in the front and taller plants in the back keeps it interesting and allows you to see all the blossoms.

E. Description (Or why the plant is cool!). This area will give you a bit of history or other information letting you know why this particular variety is interesting.

F. Image. Normally the image focuses on the blossoms or fruit of a plant which can sometimes be a bit deceiving as it gives no indication of it’s actual size. Make sure to read all the information about size when making a decision.

The back side tells you everything you need to know to be successful in starting this particular plant.

G. Contains several items.

  • Days to emerge. This tells you how long it takes for the seeds to come up, or emerge, from the soil after planting.
  • Seed Depth. This tells you how far down into the soil the seed should be planted. This is very important in assuring successful germination. Don’t guess, measure. In this case of these poppies, you will scatter the seed on top of the soil and rake it in lightly (we will learn why later).
  • Seed Spacing. Here you will simply scatter the seeds, but some will give a more precise measurement like “space seeds 1″ apart.” This means you would plant one seed every inch.
  • Thinning. This tells you how many plants need to be thinned, or removed, from the planting space once the seedlings have reached a certain height. In this case once the poppies are 1″-2″ tall, you will leave one plant every 9″ and remove the rest. The easiest, and safest, way to thin if you are new to seed starting is to snip out the plants you want to remove with scissors. Although this may seem wasteful and even a bit mean, by snipping out the plants you want to thin, you won’t disturb the roots of the plants you want to keep and avoid injuring them.
  • The illustrator. Botanical Interests has some of the most beautiful illustrations I’ve seen. Don’t you agree?

And a great design feature on the Botanical Interests seed packages is that once you have removed your seeds from the package, you can cut out this label and use it to mark your seeds. Simply attach it to a large popsicle stick with some Modge Podge and it should last until the seeds have grown. If you are growing more than one seed at a time, it’s important to mark your seeds. No matter how many times I swear I’ll remember what I planted, there will always be some confusion if I don’t mark them as I plant them.

H. More plant information. Again this can be cultural, anecdotal or historical. In this case, it lets you know that these poppies are deer resistant in addition to giving you a bit of history behind the flowers.

I. When to sow. This is the really important part. It tells you when to start your seeds, both indoors and out. In this case the seeds should be started outside four to six weeks before our average frost last date. Here on the Central Coast that would be right around the beginning of February. (Read more about average frosts dates here). Some plants will say something like up until first frost. That would be some time around late October. It’s very important to follow these directions because most plants have certain temperature needs to grow properly. Cucumbers will be killed by even the lightest frost. Peas dislike hot weather. A few days either way will probably be fine, but don’t try and fudge the planting dates too much.
When to start inside? In the case of these poppies, it’s not recommended. This is true for many wildflowers and plants that dislike being transplanted. If it’s OK to start plants inside it will give you a time frame based on your average first or last frost date.

J. Special Germination Instructions. In the case of these poppies, the seeds actually need light to germinate. Other seeds may need to be soaked or have their seed casing nicked with a knife or roughed up with some sandpaper. This section will tell you if there is anything strange you need to do.

K. Botanical Interests had received so many questions about GMO seeds that they state it right on the package. No GMO’s or treated seeds.

L. Seed sell by dates. This tells you when a seed has been packaged and when it should be sold. Making sure that your seeds are fresh will give you the best results.

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Easy Orchids

Through the month of February and just in time for Valentine’s Day, all orchids are 20% off!

To many successfully growing orchids seems to be a difficult and mysterious task. Orchids are believed to have ridged, demanding requirements and any deviation from their needs will result in nothing less than death! This, however, couldn’t be farther from the truth. Yes, orchids do have particular needs in regards to light, watering and temperature but these needs are no harder to meet than any other plant. The key to successfully growing orchids is picking the right orchid variety for your particular location and abilities.

One of the biggest differences in the cultural requirements between orchids has to do with where they originated. Orchids that originated from cool mountain regions like some in the Odontoglossom family require cool temperatures that are no warmer than 70°-72° with a high amount of  humidity and air circulation. Orchids like this are best grown in cool greenhouses. The Phaleanopsis on the other hand which originated from Northern Australia, the Philippines, India and Indonesia will enjoy a temperature range between 62° and 85° with a humidity factor of about 70 percent. This makes Phaleanopsis or moth orchids much more forgiving and easier to grow indoors under the conditions that we also enjoy.

Moth orchids need a good amount of bright, indirect light daily. The intensity of the light that they need in the winter is more than what they need in the summer, meaning that in the summer the plant needs to be farther from the window than in the winter. I find that growing them a few feet off of an east facing window where they will get a good amount of bright, indirect light (the leaves never receive direct sunlight) daily they will do fine. (For me this is the same location in which I can successfully grow African violets) One way to make sure you are giving your plant the right amount of light is to notice the leaf color. Most moth orchids have a leaf color that is grassy green. Dark green leaves are an indication that the plant is not receiving enough light and needs to move closer to a window. Light green or yellowing leaves means the plant is receiving too much light and needs to move back a bit. Once you find a good light spot for one moth orchids, others will do well near that spot too.

Humidity is very important. Coming from tropical regions and rainforests, orchids have evolved to need a good amount of moisture in the air around them. Customers often tell me that they will mist their orchids, but that isn’t a very good idea. Not that they won’t like it, they do (so mist if you want), but misting doesn’t last long enough. The amount of moisture you add to the air by misting the plant last only about 10 minutes in the average home. I don’t know anyone that can keep up with that schedule. An easier way is to place the orchid pots on a tray or bowl filled with gravel and always keep the bowl filled with water just below the top of the gravel line. This way the orchid isn’t sitting in water and as the water evaporates around the plant it will increase the humidity all day long. Clustering several orchids on a large tray can create a beautiful display.

Because orchids are normally grown in moss or bark, many are confused about when to water them. Even though moth orchids are not grown in soil, you can still do a touch test to see if they need water. If they are grown in bark, the bark should feel slightly springy when you press on it. Once it starts to feel more like gravel than spongy bark you need to water your orchid. With sphagnum moss it will have a similar feel to it. When it feels like a ball with a spongy center, it normally has enough water. If it feels more rigid and dry and makes a crunchy sound when you press on it, your plant needs water.

When watering your plants, use room temperature water and drench thoroughly. I normally set my plants in the sink and pour the water slowly over the planting medium and roots until it starts to run out the bottom. Once most of the water has drained, I put them back on their tray. How often you water will vary and depend on home heating and air circulation, but if you start doing the touch test from the beginning, you will soon learn what your watering schedule should be. One way to see if you are giving your orchid enough water is to look at the leaves and aerial roots. Well hydrated leaves are smooth and have a shine to them. Healthy roots look like crisp bean sprouts.

Now all you need to do is feed your plants. If you have taken a look at the fertilizer section you may have noticed that there are several types of fertilizer. One is for growth, one is for bloom and then there is an all purpose fertilizer. Which do you use and when? Although I’m sure using the different fertilizers at the proper time does make some difference in the health of your plants, just giving them something every so often seems to work too. So I feed my plants the all purpose formula 20-20-20 (yellow one) once every two to three weeks.

If you would like to set your orchid in a decorative pot, do. But don’t immediately transplant your orchid. Moth orchids like tight spaces and the pot size should be about 1/3 the width of the leaves from outer tip to tip. No larger. Even if some of the roots are poking out near the top, resist the urge to move the plant up. Putting it in too large a pot will cause it to stop blooming and lets face it, the blooms are what we are after.

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February Garden Center Sale

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Time to Prune–Roses & Fruit Trees

Now is the time here on the Central Coast when we need to prune our roses and fruit trees. Although it seems that the plants never truly go dormant (I saw a peach tree blooming yesterday), we still need to give them a bit of a break and put them to bed. If pruning seems like some mystical art to you, take heart. The book “How to Prune Fruit Trees and Roses” by R. Sanford Martin, a staple for years, is now back in print and even better. The current publishers not only brought back this pruning bible but added a section on pruning roses. With the variety of fruit trees and shrubs it covers and now roses, this will be the only pruning book you will ever need to buy. Each chapter gives you detailed instructions on how to prune a particular tree or type of rose along with easy to follow illustrations and photos.

One thing you will want to do before you start is make sure your pruners are clean and sharp. If sharpening your pruners yourself also seems like a daunting task, try this handy 6 in 1 multifunction sharpening tool (item 7262074). No need to worry about holding your blade at the proper angle, simply swipe the sharpener over your blade and the guide holds it in place perfectly. This truly is the easiest sharpening tool I’ve ever used. The screw off knob at the back even contains an oil reservoir so you can keep your tools properly lubricated.

And the last bit of information you should know about pruning regards sterilization. For years a bleach solution was recommended to sterilize your cutting tools between cuts to stop the spread of disease. But as we all know, bleach can quickly ruin clothing and over time degrades your pruners as well. Rubbing alcohol has also been recommended, but was still found to cause wear on the rubber handles of tools. So what should you use? Lysol cleaning concentrate. In a study on tool disinfection, Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott found Lysol to be the most effective and least corrosive to tools. The University of California California Agriculture division recommends a ratio of one part Lysol (concentrate) to 5 parts water. Mix it just prior to pruning and dip your pruners between each cut. Cleaning your pruning tools won’t stop diseases like powdery mildew or black spot from appearing but it does stop the really nasty vascular diseases that kill your plants form the inside out. So take the time to disinfect now so you can enjoy your roses and fruit trees for years to come.

Items are  now available in all our stores either on the shelf or via special order.

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Growing Blueberries

During the month of January get a free bag of Gromulch with the purchase of three 5″ blueberry plants.

If you love eating sweet, delicious blueberries, but hate paying $5 for a tiny handful in a plastic tub, why not grow your own. In addition to giving you delicious fruit, blueberry plants also have great ornamental value as well. You may have heard that blueberries are difficult to grow, but they aren’t. They are, however, a bit particular about soil pH and some varieties do better in our coastal climate than others. If you take care of those two needs at the beginning, they are no more difficult than any other plant you grow.

The first step is selecting the right blueberry. For most of the Central Coast, this means choosing a Southern Highbush. These varieties will produce in areas where the winters are relatively warm and mild. Some great Southern Highbush varieties are: O’Neal, Sunshine Blue, Sharpblue, Southmoon, Jubilee, Misty and Jewel.

Blueberries prefer soil that is acidic (a pH range from 4.5-5). The only way to tell what the actual pH of your soil is would be by testing a soil sample. You can purchase kits to do this. (Most areas on the Central Coast have somewhat alkaline soil). To lower soil pH you can use aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate and sulfur. Both aluminum sulfate and iron sulfate are fast acting but work through the soil quicker than sulfur which is slow acting but lasts longer (3-4 years).  A relatively small amount of each is required to drop the pH of the soil one level. For 100 square feet of soil you would need 2.5 lbs in sandy loam soil (5 lbs in clay) of either aluminum sulfate or iron sulfate. For sulfur you would need .5 lbs in sandy loam (1.5 lbs. in clay). Again, you would need to test your soil in the beginning to see just where the pH level stands so you will know how much you need to apply to correct it.

An easier way to keep blueberries happy is to grow them in containers using an acidic soil mix. By mixing together a couple of easy to obtain ingredients, you can not only get your blueberries off to a good start but keep them happy for seasons to come.

Blueberry Container Soil Mix

  • 1/3 pathway bark
  • 1/3 peat
  • 1/3 Kellogg’s Azalea mix
  • 1 handful of soil sulfur per plant

This creates a mixture that is acidic, drains well, yet still holds the right amount of moisture.

Fertilize with Dr. Earth’s Rhododendron, Azalea and Camellia fertilizer in early spring and then repeat every two months until late summer. Apply a 2-4 inch layer of mulch around the plants keeping the base of the plant clear. This helps hold in moisture and blocks out weeds. Water well when the soil is dry at the surface and just barely moist an inch below the mulch.

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January Garden Center Sales

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Caring for you Living Christmas Tree

Living Christmas trees can be a very cost-effective way to decorate your home for the holidays and your yard for years to come. Following a few simple steps will make sure your tree makes it through its visit indoors and thrives outside.

  1. Transition your tree to the indoors. For a week before moving your tree indoors, transition it to a covered porch or patio near the house. This is a good time to hose the tree down and make sure there aren’t any hitchhiking critters inside. You can also put on the indoor/outdoor holiday lights. Although most lights do not create a problem for the tree, large old-fashioned (C9 sized bulbs) can create enough heat to dry out the needles so avoid those. LED lights create the least amount of heat and last much longer.
  2. About a week before Christmas, bring the tree indoors. It’s best to keep the tree inside the home no longer than 7-10 days. Remember that bringing the tree indoors isn’t really going to make it happy so try and keep that time as short as possible. Avoid locations near the fireplace or heating vents. Try to give the tree as much natural light as possible. And if you can, keep the indoor temperatures as cool as possible in the area near the tree
  3. Keep the tree well  watered, but not soggy. Water it enough to keep the rootball from drying out. This will vary depending on size of tree, amount of air circulation and indoor temperatures. Feeling the soil and watering when the top inch of soil begins to dry out can give you a good measurement. Also giving the container a nudge with your foot and gauging the weight (nudge it first when it’s well watered so you will know how heavy it should be) can also work. Be sure to place a larger than normal saucer under the tree to catch any excess water.
  4. After the holidays, transition the tree back outside in the same spot you transitioned it in. I like to hose it down well and clean out any dried needles. At this point  you can either plant the tree in the ground or keep it in a container if it is size appropriate. One of my favorite holiday trees is the Dwarf Alberta Spruce. These trees have a bright green color, fairly firm branches, grow to a height of about 8’ and grow slowly which make it a great choice for a containers and repeated uses as a Christmas tree.
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December Garden Center Sale!

20% Off All Citrus & Avocados

Grow your own citrus & avocado trees and have what you need in your own backyard to add to culinary dishes and beverages!

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20% Off All Succulents

Plants make great holiday gifts and easy care plants make the best gift of all. Succulents come in many shapes and sizes with varieties sure to please that plant lover on your list.

We also have a great selection of beautiful poinsettias in both 4″ & 6″ pot sizes, fresh wreaths and mixed greenery garland to decorate your home.

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Poinsettia Tips

The history of the poinsettia dates back to the Aztecs who called them “Cuetlaxochitl.” It was because of the United States Ambassador to Mexico, Joel Roberts Poinsett that we now call them poinsettias. A member of the Euphoribia family, poinsettias have long suffered from a rumor that they are poisonous. But according to the American Medical Association and a study by the Ohio State University, they are not. The sap, however, can produce mild irritation of the skin in sensitive people so it’s best to wash any of the milky sap off your skin ASAP. In all my years working with poinsettias, I’ve never had so much as a rash from them.

Poinsettia care is fairly easy as long as you remember a few key points. They like to be moderately moist and located in a cooler spot within the home.

Location: Poinsettias prefer a location where they will get at least 6 hours of bright, indirect light.  Poinsettias prefer a daytime temperature between 60-70 degrees, so pick a cooler spot inside the house.  Avoid placing them in drafts or locations near heating sources and fireplaces. Here on the coast, poinsettias can be placed outside in a sheltered location, but should be moved indoors at night as temperatures below 55 degrees will cause their bracts (the colorful portion we think of as the flower) to drop.

Water: Poinsettias prefer moderately moist soil. Water when the surface of the soil feels dry to touch. When watering, remove the decorative pot cover and thoroughly water the soil. Allow the excess water to drain before placing it back in the pot cover. Do not let poinsettias stand in water as they hate having wet feet.

Fertilizing: If you plan on keeping your poinsettia past the holidays, fertilize with a houseplant fertilizer after the plant has finished blooming.

If you would like to  know how to get your poinsettia to bloom next holiday season, check out the University of Illinois Extension’s site on the poinsettia. In addition to blooming information, they also have more history, facts and tips.

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After Thanksgiving Garden Sale!

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